Yvonne's Sketchbook

Pamplona - Rest Day 1

A wonderful lie-in! Headed to the main square for a breakfast coffee and juice. Wandered along to find the apartment that I've booked for P, J and myself for the next two nights. Discovered that I can use my iPhone as a sat nav/GPS device thingy.

The apartment wasn't ready but the office were able to stash my rucksack in their cupboard while I wandered back into the city to meet up with P and J. Found them at 12:30 - earlier than the 2pm that we'd arranged. they had both enjoyed their experience at Zabaldika very much. J and I explored the shops.

Got hopelessly lost going back to apartments - so much for my new found iPhone technical skills...

Chilled out at apartment, found supermarket and cooked us all chorizo and cheese omelette for tea, washed down with wine. A long hot soak in the bath was bliss then an early night. 

Larrasoaña to Pamplona

Walk: Larrasoaña to Pamplona (9.8 miles)

A warm day, still overcast and a brief shower that had stopped by the time i'd put my rain jacket on! We stopped at Irotz for coffee - the bar with the outside oven - it's expanded somewhat since the last time I was here, two years ago.

J and P were keen to stay with the nuns at Zabaldika but I decided that I would head toward Pamplona. We had met up with Leo again at Irotz and he very kindly walked into Pamplona with me, escorting me through "flasher alley." (In 2013 my friend and I met a flasher in this section). Once at Pamplona Leo decided to carry on to Cizur Menor.

I was happy to sit in the warm sunshine at Cafe Iruña and I used their free wifi to book myself a hotel room. Would have loved to have stayed at Hotel Gran Perla but couldn't bring myself to part with 212 euros for just one nights accommodation - a bit beyond a pilgrims budget but maybe that's why they charge so much! Hotel Leyre for me then, just a short walk from the main square and where i'd stayed on my previous visit to the city.

A long soak in the bath was fabulous. Only downside was shutting my thumb in the bathroom door - ouch!!

Couple of hours rest at the hotel then back to Cafe Iruña for wine and pintxos

Foie a la plancha con puré de mango, brocheta de queso de oveja con cecina, vino tinto y aqua con gas

Viskarret to Larrasoaña

Walk: Viskarret -> Larrasoaña (10.1 miles)

A very enjoyable walk from Viskarret. Walked mostly on my own, really enjoyed the woodland section. Had a long rest in Zubiri to rehydrate and wait for P and J.

Checked in to the municipal albergue in Larrasoaña, a bit grotty and in need of a lick of pain but for eight euros a bed i'm not complaining.

Dropped my camera! I thought it was totally knackered but I took the battery out, put it back in and turned on again and it started working. Phew! The filter that I keep over the lens is a little bent but did it's job in protecting the glass.

J was tired and went to bed around 6pm so P and I headed off to the bar and sat drinking wine for a few hours, watching the world go by and chatting.

Loved this metalwork

Municipal albergue, Larrasoaña

Roncesvalles to Viskarret

Walk: Roncesvalles -> Viskarret (7.4 miles)

Woke to the sound of thunder rumbling and as we set off, waterproof clothes on, lightning was flashing too. It only got worse! Torrential rain, thank goodness we are only going as far as Viskarret.

The storm was right overhead as we arrived in Viskarret and we'd just checked into our casa rural when there was a flash of lightning, immediately followed by thunder and the power went out. Had a bath in the windowless bathroom, door open to let in some light.

After a couple of hours things improved and J and I explored the village. The lady at the bar made me a fab omelette (tortilla) with jamón in it. Sat outside in the warm sunshine, happy with my wine and tortilla.

Our casa rural in Viskarret - La Posada Nueva - highly recommend!

Valcarlos to Roncesvalles

Walk: Valcarlos -> Roncesvalles (7.7 miles)

I think I must have been a little dehydrated when I set out this morning as I felt truly awful on the unrelenting climb from Valcarlos at just 200m altitude up to Ibañeta at 1,055m. I drank all my water and had to stop and eat salted nuts (I never usually eat until i'm done walking) and did feel a little better after that. Leo was struggling as well.

A highlight was a group of Griffon Vultures circling overhead, way up high. Also saw Ravens and Black Kite.

Needless to say Roncesvalles was a welcome sight! After rehydrating with coca cola, water, coffee, a warm shower and a rest I felt more human again.

Very busy here, the albergue is full, the hotel is full, the casa rural is full and also the overflow hostel. They reckon there are 400 pilgrims here tonight.

P and J went for their first communal meal but with my dietary restrictions I just ate the (very stinky) Iraty cheese that i'd brought with me from SJPdP plus some jamón and paté that i'd carried.

Me, taking a break on the slog up to Ibañeta

The municipal albergue at Roncesvalles

One of the churches in Roncesvalles

 

Saint Jean to Valcarlos

Walk: Saint Jean Pied de Port -> Valcarlos (7.01 miles)

It had been raining overnight but had stopped by first light. An early start for us. We're on our way!

We managed to navigate the various options which kept us off the main road. We rested and refreshed at Arneguy where we crossed the border into Spain. The last hill up to the albergue at Valcarlos is a total killer! Started to rain just as we arrived, lucky or what!?

Nice bunch of people in at the albergue and they plied us with iced water which was very welcome. Met Leo from Atlanta.

Massive spider running around in the shower with me - I think everyone must have heard me scream.

Me (left) and P leaving Saint Jean

Fantastic view from the municipal albergue at Valcarlos

And my watercolour of the scene...

The municipal albergue, Valcarlos

Cream-spot Tiger (Arctia villica) that I rescued from the doorway of the bar and put in a nearby plant pot.

Time for a walk

Time for a practice camino walk. My shoulder has been hurting and i've been seeing the physiotherapist every couple of weeks or so. She tells me that i have got "shoulder impingement syndrome." Well whatever it is it's darned painful! And i have been worrying about how i will get on walking, with a full rucksack. Only one way to find out... So, i've spent this weekend on the fantastic Isle of Barra in the far-flung Outer Hebrides of Scotland. I got the ferry to the island from the Isle of Eriskay then walked, loaded up with my rucksack, the eight and a bit miles to the "main" town on the island called Castlebay. A fab place to stop for a lunch break...

Lunch stop, Isle of Barra

I stayed overnight at the hostel, legs weren't aching too much and the shoulder was a little stiff but not too bad, not unbearable anyway. The hostel was full and i had to share the bunk room (there were four beds) with 3 blokes - happily none of them snored! At this time of year the hours of darkness are very short - the following photograph was taken after 10pm. It shows Kisimul Castle and is in the bay at Castlebay.

Kisimul Castle, Isle of Barra

My quick watercolour sketch of Kisimul Castle

In my sketch i tried, but failed miserably to capture the amazing light. The next day, after a great night's sleep i walked the almost nine miles back to the ferry. The day was not quite so sunny and my legs ached more than the day before but it was very enjoyable nonetheless. All in all a great weekend!